Providing The Perfect Premise
For Your
Potbellied Pride & Joy
Oh what fun it is to prepare your home for that new
little sweetie pig. And it’s important to make the transition from living with
littermates to peoplemates as smooth and painless as possible. The details I attend to as
a breeder in preparing a piggy for adoption are similar to what you as an adoptive family
can do to welcome the little newcomer into your home.
Much of the preparation for your new housemate will depend upon
how old the pig is, how long it has been weaned and away from other piglets, if it has
been handled and socialized, and if it has had any litterbox and/or outdoor training. When
you buy a pig from a breeder, ask lots of questions about how the pig has been handled,
what and how much food he has been eating, the extent of his litter training, the
vaccinations the pig has received and if the pig has had any type of problem. Don’t
be bashful. Information you gather beforehand will only make the transition easier.
I am writing from the perspective from which my pet pigs are
adopted: that the animal is at least seven weeks old, has been weaned and isolated from
littermates, has become user friendly and has been taught the fundamentals of potty
training.
Giving The Pig Space
A well-defined place for your piggy is most important. This area
should not be too large, have the ability to be closed off from the rest of the house and
be draft-free with an even temperature. Kitchens and utility rooms work well because of
the linoleum or tile floors in case potty accidents occur. If you received your pig in a
travel or carrying crate, this should be left in the designated quarters —
familiarity breeds contentment. Also, if you intend to use this carrier for pig pleasure
travel, trips to the vet or as a kennel when you are away from the house, it is a good
idea to feed your piggy in his carrier and lock him in once in a while. This way when it
is necessary to have your pig confined to his carrier, the experience is not scary or
unusual because he is used to it.
If you don’t have a room or part of a room you can use for
your new piggy, a large children’s play pen is a good temporary compromise. The space
is not really adequate for other than a very young piglet. Since the bottom of play pens
are usually plastic, I place throw rugs down for traction and define the sleeping area
with a blanket or sleeping bag, putting the litter pan in an opposite corner. The feeding
area should be in yet another corner. Pigs don’t like to eat and eliminate in the
same area. That’s simply not piggy-like. The play pen arrangement only works for a
young pig, so prepare a more permanent space as soon as possible.
Le Toilette
A shallow litter box is a must. Those designed for cats are far
too high for our porcine pals to climb into easily and really aren’t long enough to
be useful for an extended time. My favorite litter pan is a container used to drain water
heaters, which you can purchase at a hardware store. It comes in two shapes: either round
or made to fit in a corner. I prefer the corner style. It is only 2" tall and
19" on both sides with a rounded third side. This box is large enough to service your
piggy’s potty habits until he is about four months old. (litter pan: call Plastic
Oddities, Inc. at 800-438-5327 and ask for Corner Water Heater Pan #PVP-19)
Another option for a litter pan is a heavy, black plastic
mortar-mixing box from your building materials supplier. I’ve seen this type box in
several sizes, the smaller being 20" by 26". An under-the-bed plastic, storage
box makes an ideal potty pan. If the pan you choose is higher than 3", you will need
to cut down one side so the pig can access it easily. Watch your pig. If she is having
trouble getting into her litter box, make the side lower.
A swimming pool can also be used as a litter box. My favorite, a
rectangular configuration, this pool’s outside measurement is 30" x 45" x
4.5" tall, and the inside measures 21" x 36". It is made of a water-proof
vinyl material and edged with foam rubber . If you would like to give one of these
dual-purpose pools a try, order from PA Heartland, Ltd. at 610-323-6372, $42.95. It comes
in many designer colors!
Another item to use as a litter pan is a Cargo Tray made for
SUV’s. It is a black rubber utility tray, 24" by 34" x 3". It will not
slip, is a great height and large enough to last your piggy a long time. I found this item
at SAM’S, but if you have trouble locating one, try an auto parts dealer.
While we’re on the subject, I’d like to share my very
best potty training trick based on years of observation and lots of success. Since pigs
tend to urinate while drinking water, place the water dish in such a way that your piggy
must step into the litter box in order to drink. You’ll marvel at how wonderfully
this technique works. To help your pig along with the poodie part, place some feces in the
litter pan — this will illustrate the concept.
I prefer to use newspapers as the litter medium. They are readily
available for recycling, cheap and effective. I lay several layers in the litter pan and
remove as needed. Granted, you will be changing the papers more often, but I find wood
chips to be very messy. If you prefer wood chips, use pine and not cedar. Cat litter is
not meant for pigs...they like to eat it, those silly guys.
A combination of indoor and outdoor potty training is a good
idea. My experience indicates that these piggies don’t mind urinating indoors in a
litterbox, but would much prefer to defecate outdoors. So with the goal that one day your
pig will be totally an outdoor eliminator, choose a spot in the yard that you want the pig
to use. If your yard is not fenced, an outdoor potty ring can easily be made with a piece
of hardware cloth, 2-1/2 feet high. A good length is 14 feet. Simply make a circle with
this wire mesh, and using a few twist ties, connect the ends. Welded wire fencing can also
be used, or put together a few portable composting kits and you have a suitable, temporary
enclosure for a small pig. This defined area is especially useful when training very young
pigs that are easily picked up or those with little or no lead training. If you want to
secure this temporary cage, cut the corners off some coat hangers and stick them in the
ground, catching the bottom of the hardware cloth every two feet or so. At a pet supply
store,you can purchase a traditional, portable, wire dog enclosure to use during this
early training phase. This accessory will come in handy for later road trips -- a good
investment in my opinion.
You must stay with your piggy during this outdoor training for
two reasons: 1) to praise his accomplishments: "good pee" and "good
pooh"; and 2) to make certain he doesn’t find a way out of the yard or the
enclosure.
Back to the Indoors: How you set up your pig’s room will
depend a lot upon where existing appliances/furniture, etc. are placed. The main thing to
remember is that the potty area should be well away from the feeding and sleeping areas
and that the sleeping space should not be drafty.
Safety First
If your house has floors that are not carpeted, your piggy will
really appreciate paths made of throw rugs. Smaller pigs have more difficulty navigating
on slick surfaces than larger ones, so these throw rugs may need to be used only
temporarily. They also function to direct your pig to the areas you prefer him to go. If
allowed, your porcine pal will investigate every nook and cranny of your abode, as pigs
are very curious by nature. They like to help you with your daily chores, happily
following you around, snorting and almost always collecting dust bunnies on their noses.
It’s important to keep kitchen and bathroom cabinets that
contain dangerous substances closed securely, just as you would for a child. Keep your
piggy away from anything that might harm him.
I would not recommend using crockery dishes for feed and/or water
bowls. Pigs love to push things around with their noses, hence the possibility of lots of
broken dishes. Because pigs have big jowls, a wide bowl is necessary. I’ve had the
best luck with straight-sided, plastic bowls about 7" in diameter and 2" tall.
Another good option is an aluminum pan about 1-1/2" tall and 12" in diameter.
Both are light weight, good for traveling, indestructible, and easy to clean.
Very young, newly weaned pigs really like to have something warm
to cuddle up to. A rubber hot water bottle filled with warm water and wrapped in a cloth
or old t-shirt works great. This is like a mini water bed, warm and very comfortable, and
not unlike the feel of another piglet. A household electric heating pad should not be used
because the pig may chew on the cord and the result could be disastrous. It’s
important to keep all electrical cords inaccessible to your pig, but because pigs are so
smart, you can quickly teach your pig that cords are a definite "NO." Special
heat mats are available if you feel your climate and usage would warrant the expense. They
are made of a heavy plastic material with the heating element completely embedded and the
cord protected. Many sizes are offered, and they can be used indoors as well as outdoors.
(heat mat: Kane Mfg. Co. Inc., 800-247-0038). Another heated pad for dogs, cats and other
small animals is made by K & H Manufacturing and is called Lectro-Kennel. If not
available locally, call 719-591-6950 and inquire.
Every pig I’ve ever dealt with would much prefer a sleeping
bag to any other indoor bedding. I’ve tried blankets, rugs, and dog pillows, but the
bag definitely wins. I think they like the slick feel and coziness as well as the ability
to burrow down. Discount stores carry sleeping bags for under $20 that fill the bill and
are machine washable.
You can create a cozy sleeping area for your pig by setting up a
card table and draping blankets, large towels or sheets over it, making a tent afair.
Place your piggy cushion and all your pig’s special blankies inside. She will love
the privacy and there will definitely be no drafts. The table top serves as a handy space
for her supplies.
The Mobile Pig and More
At first, getting your pig up and down steps and in and out of
cars will be no problem—just pick him up and do with him what you will. However, as
the size of your sweetie pig increases, so will this ease of handling lessen. All of the
entries into our house have steps. It just so happens that we had built a ramp for an
aged, arthritic, canine buddy that also works beautifully for the pigs. It is made out of
piece of 3/4" plywood with a guard rail that is made from a 1" x 6". Be
certain that the slope of your ramp is not too steep. I’ve stapled a piece of rubber
matting down the center of the ramp to help with traction—indoor/outdoor carpet or
roofing shingles will also work. A similar ramp can also be constructed to use with your
car.
It seems that younger, smaller pigs have less trouble climbing
stairs than older, larger ones. Since my breeding girls are in and out of the house a lot,
I certainly don’t want them dragging their precious underlines along hard, concrete
steps. But that is not to say a perky, pet pig can’t learn to use the steps without
harming himself. Using food as a motivator, work with your pig on stair training. You will
be surprised at how quickly your pig will master this. As always, be slow and patient and
don’t over do your training sessions—short, frequent sessions are more
productive than long ones.
You will have fun watching your particular pig and discovering
what works and what pleases him. I’ve bought dog toys, hung tether balls from trees,
and perused toy departments looking for the perfect diversions, but none have been
overwhelmingly successful. Rather, my pigs most enjoy playing with a throw pillow or
tearing up newspapers. A wagging dog tail or shiny canine toe nails passing by also have
proven appealing.
I discovered a wonderful rubber brush that is actually designed
for cattle but works well for pigs. On one side there are bristles, on the other little
rubber nubs. It fits on your hand like a glove, which makes grooming convenient and
reinforces that the human hand brings pleasure to the pig—a concept that comes in
handy during training. I’ve tried other styles of brushes, but this is by far the
favorite of my piggies, and it is very durable. (scrub & wash mitt: Nasco, #C11574N,
800-558-9595)
The items I’ve mentioned here have been tried and tested and
work very well for me and my pigs. That’s not to say that there aren’t lots of
other systems and supplies that will work for you. Success depends upon each
individual’s set up, the personality of each pig and the time you spend with your
pig. The most important thing to remember is that your pig is quite intelligent. Put
yourself in your pig’s position and try to reason as he would. If you suddenly move
his litter box, for example, don’t be surprised if your pig either eliminates in the
spot the box used to sit, or refuses to eliminate at all. Try not to make abrupt changes
in your piggy’s environment and routine. The adaptability of these little creatures
never ceases to amaze me, but consistency and familiarity are very important when you are
trying to train your pig.
"The Pig Person's Perfect
Pet"
